Deck Work I Wauquiez Hood 38

The deck on S/V Rendova had teak overlay. Most of the screw heads are exposed and the deck is well worn. The deck is constructed as semi-cored. Areas where deck hardware is attached, the core is solid fiberglass. Other areas have a light weight coring material of end grain balsa wood. The cored areas are isolated and glassed independently which limits any water intrusion. Bow Area
Since the boat is out of the water having a blister job done, I started removing the teak and deck hardware. I have experience working on teak decks and I knew this would be a job. And what a job! I found the builder had bedded the teak a flesh colored adhesive similar to 3M's 5200. Instead of prying and lifting the teak strips, I now chisel away. My chiseling will often gouge the gel coated decks or the adhesive is so strong it will lift areas of gel coat. Anchor Locker with Teak Removed
A better way to remove teak is using beveled edged oak strips. I will start a run with a putty knife and chisel, then insert the oak stakes. Banging away I could lift off three foot sections. To stop the run I score the teak with a circular saw. I would also put a doll rod under the oak which lifts the hammer end and keeps the beveled end somewhat down. This teak is old and splits often, then back to the chisel.
oak strips covered in epoxy starting a run teak lifting off
I coated both ends of the oak with epoxy. All screw holes were countersunk. Then I used 3M's Vinyl Ester Putty to fill the screw holes and any divits or low spots and re-sand smooth.
Removing Deck Fittings Closeup Port Chainplate Chainplate removed
Removing hardware along the way. Because of the condition of the teak, there had been deck leaks at the water fill and the port chain plate. The leak at the chain plate dripped down the bulkhead damaging some woodwork. The chain plate leak was encouraged by gap on one side of the plate. The chain plate was removed and the area was epoxy over, refitted and "D" ring holes re-drilled.
Factory Chainplate Gary had these photos from the factory of how they layed up chainplates. These are from a sister design of the Pretorien. The SS is glassed in and bolted. karl's chainplate Karl C. removed his chainplate and grinded down to bare metal.

The knees of the chainplates are thru bolted to the bulkheads and have metal backing strips. On the Hoods the port side has easy access to the bolts. On the starboard side you must remove the cabinet in the head for access.
Removing Teak Deck and Fittings Removing Teak Deck and Fittings Removing Teak Deck and Fittings
The construction of the cabin top and deck is a combination of solid glass and balsa wood coring. The factory had build and designed these areas such that factory installed hardware runs thru solid glass. It is hit or miss when installing gear in other deck/cabin top locations. I have found epoxy had been applied to the areas where hardware was installed at a later time. I have also re-epoxyed those area, just in case.
mast collar mast collar bolt mast collar cleaned up
I knew the mast leaks water due to stains. During a rain I noticed water dripping down the bolts which hold the collar to the deck. I checked the collar on the deck and found it well sealed. Upon removal and inspection I found calcium deposits under the collar. My conclusion is that the teak has channeled and wicked water to the bolts. Removing the SS bolts and SS rails proved to be difficult. The SS and the cast aluminum had years of galvanic corrosion. With the use of a torch, penetrating oil I separated the hardware. Cleaning the collar base was awkward. I end up using a solution of muriatic acid and then wired away the built up deposits.
mast collar teak gone teak going going going
I measured the collar bolts again with no teak decks, and then cut off the bolts. The deck is looking cleaner, still needs some attention as there are dips which I just have a hard time to fill in.
centerboard winch top view open winch top allen head set screw hold the wire
To remove the traveler the centerboard's winch (with cable) had to be removed first. The centerboard cable runs threw the traveler. Removal of the winch was straight forward. What a neat centerboard winch. I do not understand how it works, its unlike a standard winch. You just crank in either direction to lift or lower.
winches being pulled hardware being removed big winches
Removing the hardware around the cockpit. I re-enforced the winch bases from the inside the boat a year or two later.

Cockpit Area

removing gear on combing teak removed but split Teak Combing and Hardware Removed
Not much teak left, just the cockpit combing and seat slats. The combing I tried to removed in one section. I wanted to keep a pattern. The wood is old and split in a few places but I epoxy and taped it back together.
false forward cockpit locker lid stakes driven under lid locker lid off, fiberglass pulled off
The False Cockpit Locker - I had looked to see if this locker's lid is attached from under or inside the boat. I could not find any way it was attached. So I took my roofer's pry and hooked it under the aft edge and started to lift. There was some wiggle room and give, but then you could hear the tearing of fiberglass. I drove wooden stakes under the lid. With each hammer/sledge blow the sounds of tearing fiberglass.
I looked as best I could under the lid. I noted that the back edge of the lid was unattached so that water and debris could collect under the lid. There was a unrecognizable mass in the center area. With more stakes and blows, the lid came off. The center mass was globs of resin maybe 3/8 inch high. I took chisles to the resin and finished with both my high speed sander/polisher and the dual action sander. resin holding locker lid locker
  Locker held with resin Locker Cleaned Up
starboard false locker starboard false locker locker base cleaned up
Starboard Side False Locker Various Stages of Removal Resin removed Locker Cleaned Up
finshed finished Cleanned up and ready for painting. I found that of all teak removed from the boat only the cockpit slats could be saved. I found a cabinet maker with a planer and ran the slats thru.

Soft Spots

While working on the deck and cockpit I found a couple of soft spots. Areas that flexed or made a sound when stepped upon. I examined these areas from inside the boat. I corrected the problem by either cutting a 1/4" plywood board and epoxy it to the underside. Or I drilled from the deck and injected epoxy.
soft cockpit floor cockpit closeup soft master cabin locker
Under the forward end of the cockpit, there was no wood coring. I dry fitted the area before applying any epoxy. I wetted the areas of fiberglass and plywood. I then thickened a batch of epoxy and applied it to the wood. In the master stateroom's hanging locker, again there was no coring.

Removing Stanchions

Takes patience, penetrating oil, torch, hammer, sledge, screw driver, wrenches and a nail punch. Years of galvanic action between the SS bolts and the aluminum base has frozen up the bolts. Do not try and remove the aluminum base. The base is thru bolted to the toe rail, with no access from below. Do not save the nuts and bolts, they will be deformed. I used a drill with a wire brush attachment to clean the base's inside. before before