Deck Work II Wauquiez Hood 38 - Refinishing

I had worked long hours on the deck removing teak and all the deck hardware. Everything removed from the deck was labeled. All nuts/bolts were bagged and taged. I did all the rough work getting the deck & cockpit ready for yard crew to finish the job. The yard crew first "skimmed" the deck and then sanded. They filled in the low spots and sanded down the ridges. They found flaws in my work which I could never see.

The finished result will be a off white or flat white trim around the deck, cabin top and cockpit. The flat white will reduce the glare in the tropics. The cabin top, deck, and cockpit floor will be a light gray with heavy or coarse anti-skid. The light gray should be cool enough in the south and yet contrast with the white trim.
two images
initial spraying of deck Justin first sanding first sanding first sanding

The deck and cockpit has been sanded with great detail. Now coats of off white Awlgrip are applied. The trims areas of white will be taped over before applying coats of a light gray Awlgrip. The light gray areas will have a course non-skid added. The non-skid texture will hide any sanding imperfections.
white awlgrip applied awlgrip on cabin sides hatches sprayed yard boss taping

The deck, cabin and trim areas where the flat white shows are tapped. Then the area is sprayed with a light gray paint. Followed by more spraying with and non skid added to the gray paint.
fore deck first coat deck done and tape removed deck done deck cabin with non skid sprayed
 
The Air Vent on the boat is by E C SMITH & SONS (ECS) in the UK.  It is a low profile vent. The plastic is UV damaged. ECS has plastic replacement kits, it takes about 8 days for parts to arrive from the UK. SS vent cover, click for more images

The SS cover measures 9"

The Plastic cover measures 6 5/8"

The Collar with screen about 5 1/2"

The Inner Collar 4 8/9"

plastic inner cover
 
The Anchor Windlass is a Lofrans Horizontal model. It was chewed up by the weather, but workable. I started to break part the windlass for service and to have the case repainted. I ran into corrosion problems with hex heads bolts set into a aluminum plate. manul windlass - 2 photos problem removing bolts - 2 photos opened case 2 photos
 
The windless was serviced and painted. I added a pawl to break the chain gypsy. If I were anchor I had a problem letting more chain. With the pawl I now can easily let out more chain. windlass drawing painted painted
 
Putting back the hardware always takes much more time. But what a joy to walk on such a beautiful painted deck. hardware back on traveler on cockpit mostly back together
 
Splashing the boat after 9 months of work which included a peel & bottom job. It was interesting to see that the boat floats high, about a foot above the waterline. The boat having dried out and not having teak overlay on the decks has lighten the boat. splash traveler on deck cabin with non skid sprayed
 
I wanted a divided anchor locker. One side chain the other line. I want to be able to carry around 170 feet of chain. I will also upgrade my anchor to one of the newer designs of Rocna or Mason. setup anchor locker two photos After using this setup I am not happy in the way the chain falls into the locker. I will either move the divider over or cutout the lower section which should allow for better stacking.

The boat's propane tank was located in the starboard cockpit locker. This setup was an after thought, not air tight,just dinky. So I moved the propane setup to the bow. The copper tubing was a straight run along the deck/hull on the port side. See the boat's interior menu items for details.
I purchased a 20lb composite tank and built a storage area between the first and second bow bulkheads. This area is vented and out of way. Building the platform was straight forward. propane tank propane tank locker locker done
 
The companionway and hatches were well weather a perfect winter time project. Everything was varnished and put back together. I built a clever storage rack holding hatch boards & screen. See the boat's interior menu items for details. old hatch board
varnished companionway
 

LED's - I had replaced all interior lights with LEDs and added red LEDs for night sailing. I found the best prices and selection at www.superbrightleds.com.
My nav lights are AquaSignal's Series 41 which use a 20 watt incandescent bulb(s). The replacement LED used is for a car's breaklights and only uses 235 mA. led replacement wired up tested on car battery
 
The cockpit halyard winch pads flexed when under heavy strain. I have moved the main halyard to the mast within reach of reef controls but have kept the ginny halyard in the cockpit. I have re-enforced the area under the big winch pads. deck winches backing plate done

Deadlights needed replacement after 25 years of being in the sun. I carefully removed the aluminum fasteners and noted any damaged/broken bolts.
These aluminum fasteners are called Chicago, Sex or Binding bolts. American made Binding bolts lack a slotted head. I hack sawed a slot in a few of the replacement bolts. deadlight aluminum frame bedded

Hatch Lens needed replacement after 25 years of being in the sun.
Hatches leaked and are UV'ed so I replaced all the lens. Lots of products out there to re-bed the lens. I used Dow Corning's 795 Silicone Building Sealant is a one-part, cold-applied, non-sagging silicone that cures upon exposure to atmospheric moisture. main hatch removing bedding bedding lens