Engine Work Wauquiez Hood 38

Perkins 4.108 diesel engines have been around forever. My knowledge of engines is limited to basic maintenance. I had the yard inspect and suggest any seen problems. Yard found a number of things which are better to take care of now. These type of repairs will last 20 or more years. If you should ever want to paint the engine use Ford Tractor Blue. the great loop Pitted Shaft
New Cutlass, Transmission pulled & rebuilt, one motor mount replaced and a leaking water pump. Since the shaft was out I replaced the shaft log's rubber hose. Cutlass Bearing Transmission Out, Motor Mount Removed water pump drip
While motoring my engine instrument panel shorted out. There was that acidic smell & smoke, gauges and wiring harness were very warm to the touch. Inspection showed the ground wire had shorted against one of the gauge wires. I removed and replaced the burnt wires and I hope simplified the wiring mess. wiring diagram panel and burnt wires panel reinstalled
 
Steering - I Inspected and oiled the chain/wire in motor oil. One difference in this installation is that the "wires" cross within the pedestal which was different from my last boat. Not 100% sure who made this steering gear. I found no markings on the pedestal. Diagrams steering  
 

Perkins' 4.108 fuel leak - I found a drip coming off the throttle control. Both the throttle and kill mechanisms have "O" rings which become brittle with age and have to be replaced. Tools needed are 8mm & 1/4 wrenches for the bleed screws and bolts holding the governor. I did move a fuel line out of the way. Not much room to work in so it took hours. There are many fuel pump variations so it's best to get the name/model/serial # off the pump.

The MK II's have a dead man's throttle which I do not like. Good news the throttle arm is adjustable in 360 degrees. Bad news my large capacity oil filter is in the way of the arm's movement.
governor
 
Batteries - Currently I have three #27, 12 volt batteries. I like and have used 6 volt golf cart batteries in series. GC's take a deeper discharge and are the most cost efficient. With planning and a tape measure I should have 3-5 inches of room so I have access to the raw water pump's impeller. 6 volt battery It is mmpossible to removing the male pipe fitting on the seacock. The seacock will turn instead. Good news is the thru hull fitting is just above the waterline. I found Trident Marine has a sanitation hose at 1 7/8 inch which is a good fit. Lastly I moved the engine's wet exhaust up and to the side of the hull by cutting away part of the stern thwart. hoses off
 
Pulled the batteries and cleaned the area. Placed a mocked up platform sized to new battery box, checked the fit. It's close... pulling batteries battery box  
 
The battery box was cut in half and glassed to the proper length & width. When installed it's a tight fit epically near the water pump impeller.

Batteries installed, wired to charger. I cut out the forward cured lip for eaiser water pump access.
box cut battery box installed battery box installed
 
We had a lighting strike on or near our dock and I found some damage onboard.  Equipment fuses appeared to have taken the hits.  I had no idea there was a fuse outside the control pannel. Upon research I found this fuse is a High Rupture or Breaking Capacity type fuse.   It’s marked as L350-75. 

The fuse was spliced into the Perkins’s 4-108 diesel harness.  It ran from Hood 38 MK II’s fuse panel’s negative bus to the fuse and then to the 12 volt battery’s negative ground.  I found replacement fuses on Ebay. I now have a few extra.
line fuse
 
In 2017 I dragged anchor in Key West and the prop got chewed up by a derelict boat's anchor chain. The prop was repairable but cost wise a new prop was installed. I found no issues with strut or transmission but later I discovered that the prop shaft was bent. prop new max prop prop shaft dialed
 
My engine used to sling oil and only got worse. I had went thru a quart of oil a week and at higher RPM's I lost oil faster. Along my travels I talked to mechanics and they all pointed to the front engine seal. I had other things which need to be replaced - So the engine came out of the boat 2017. While out I clean, soundproof and painted the engine room. engine pre move soundproofing removed engine gear
 
Moving the engine - woodwork around the hatchway was protected using cardboard. The floorboards had a layer of oil absorbing pads followed by cardboard topped with a sheet of plywood. Wooden blocks with metal braces were elevated above the engine and a long SS shaft was used to move the engine out of the compartment. A mobile crane removed the engine from the boat. engine pre move engine bed engine room painted
 
Perkins' 4-108 engines owners report problems with the rear seal. Its an old design called a "rope seal". I expected my rope seal to be a problem but it was not. It was in great shape with normal wear. Rather the paper seal(s) had deteriorated with age causing a minor oil leak but nothing like the front seal. Seals age and leak with time. engine gear rear seal injectors removed
 
Soundown 1 inch composite insulation was used to soundproof the engine room. The engine's worn parts were replaced such as water pump, exhaust mixing elbow, hoses and aged gaskets. Items rebuilt were the injectors and teh injector's fuel pump. And lastly the heat exchanger was cleaned and the internal "isolator" was replaced. soundproofing engine engine installation
 
On my boat the strut & cutlass bearing are 1 1/8 inch and the prop shaft is 30 mm. It's a mis-match where the shaft has play in it. I had a machine shop turn down 30 mm cutlass to fit the strut. If you replace the shaft have a 1 1/8 one made. bearing engine installed new water filter
 
Deaton Yacht Services in Oriental NC is a top notch yard. I learned a lot regarding my engine. Following are those tidbits. Closed water cooling systems - to clean use Star Brite Instant Hull Cleaner. Drain and dispose of old anti-freeze. For my engine pour two cups into the system and top with fresh water. Run to temperature and then let rest for 1 hour then drain. Flush with a mixture of baking soda (1 lb box) and water, run and let sit for half hour. follow up with fresh water flushing before adding anti-freeze coolant. Raw saltwater flush was not necessary. In the past I would flush every few years with a diluted muriatic acid. Now there are products which will do a chemical raw water flush.