Hull & Rudder Wauquiez Hood 38

The hull is solid fiberglass and weights in at 23,300 lbs. The boat weight about 7,000 lbs. more than comparable boats of equal size. The boat has a keel/centerboard and draws 4' 6" board up and 10' 8" board down. The ballast is encapsulated behind a cut away forefoot. One owner unfortunately had run aground on a breakwall. His Wauquiez took the pounding where other boats would have been destroyed. More information about this grounding with photos follows. Hull being Blasted
As expected the hull had blisters and the purchase price was adjusted. The hull was peeled, dried and barrier coated. I had the water line raised and a couple of thru hulls glassed over. hole hole
The boat came with a vanity head in the aft cabin which I considered useless. I removed the head, hoses and seacocks. For safety reasons I removed the thru hulls and had the area re-glassed. I knew the thru hulls were flush mounted and heavily glassed without backing plates. I had to drill out and bang away to remove. Other Wauquiez owners told me this was the standard practice for the builder during this time period. No one has reported any Wauquiez sinking due to thru hulls. Related blog on how the thru hulls were installed at the factory with photos more...

A French Centurion owner talked to an expert about the Wauquiez's. The original thru-hulls are made of high-quality sintered bronze and have a thickness of 5mm. Thru hulls were designed and built as intended. There have never been any reported problems.
thur hulls removed
The Rudder is partially skegged and was both visual and acoustically sounded when tapped with a hammer. The rudder showed signs of blistering and has been peeled along with the hull. I drilled a couple of pilot holes in the lower areas of the rudder looking for water intrusion. Not unexpected, saltwater trickled out. I drilled other holes looking for the highest dry spots, lowest wet spots and a few random holes in between. When the rudder was peeled, the trailing edge cracked open. I took an air hose and gently forced air to expel water. I found that the rudder skin on starboard side lifted from the inner corning. I epoxyed the trailing edge. I gravity fed the rudder with a slow hardening epoxy to fill any internal voids. I found that when I forced twigs into the drilled holes water would be forced out and the epoxy stayed in. Rudder Peeled
Rudder Crack Rudder Clamped Excess Epoxy Sanded Off gravity feed
I know of one Hood 38 whose cable attachment to the centerboard came undone. This boat had its cb cable replaced while cruising in the South Pacific. From reading their emails I assumed they had used a shackle(s) which vibrate free. When hauled out, I inspect my board, cable and nicro pressed toggle fitting for wear. I have added a couple of extra feet of cable so every few years I will snip off a length of CB pennant to lessen the chance of wear. cb attachement double toggle  
An Owner's Comments:
We've had lots of experience with CB cables on our Mk I. Preventative maintenance (cutting off a ft at the CB end) is good. Each time the cable has failed, not the swages. I carry 3/16“ swages, thimbles, and the hand tool to do the work. I pull the cable out through the deck fitting and clean it off, cutting off the end. Then I tape the end so it won't unravel, and stick it back through the fittings and out the trunk and bring it back on deck to do the swages. This is easier than it sounds, I've never had it bind at the turning blocks. The cable usually fails at the edge of the swage fitting closest to the thimble, so I am careful not to get the swages too close to it and to each other - about 2 cms between the pieces. Then I take a deep breath and re-fit the pin at the CB swivel. It isn't always possible to tell via an underwater visual inspection if the cable is about to fail. All this said, when we haul out next week, I will replace the SS cable with dyneema (amsteel) single braid, splice a thimble into the end, and do a complete service on the two turning blocks at either end of the tube. I'll have to save a 10 ft length of cable in case I ever need to thread the dyneema thru the tube and blocks again since it doesn't have the rigidity to get poked thru. I met Peregrine, a Mk II in French Harbor, Roatan, and they had done this and were very happy with the results. There is no worry about the strength of dyneema, only possible chafing.
At haul out I had the yard replace and lengthen the centerboard cable by three feet. They had a problem and jammed the messenger line in the sheaves. The yard took apart the centerboard tube to unjam. I inspected and found all three clevis pins to be corroded. Knowing this I will drop the centerboard and inspect the pin/bushing. After 30 years it's time to replace all stainless steel. SS cable is 3/16 x 25 feet, two clevis pins 3/8 1.5 inch grip and the third pin has to be machined. cb tube pins
Gasket material on my boat is in great condition and does not need replacement. The gasket appears to be Neoprene, 1/4 inch thick, bedded in an black adheasive with a layer of silicone on top. gasket gasket
Tony's Centerboard Blues Updated from SE Asia.
For the last 6 months Tony & Connie had been sailing with their board up and stuck in the centerboard trunk. The board's CB pennant had been attached and "wired" using a split ring on the shackle pin. The split ring did not last. Following are images of the board with cracks and declamation at the head. All fixable and a lesson learned. Suggestions, when you hear the board banging in the trunk, pull it up some. Lost your attachment, loop a line under the hull, pull board up and attach line to rails. CB pennant make it longer then needed, then every few years cut a foot of the wire off and re-nicro press to minimize wire chafe. Mark the CB pennant wire at the max up position.
After 30 years in the water the centerboard's SS flanged pipe was looking in poor shape.  The flanged pipe fits into the head of the centerboard, the pin is inserted from the port side, through the hull and the head of the centerboard to the starboard side where it is held by a bolt threaded into the end of the SS rod.  centerboard flange
Hull damage from a hard grounding..... we had an unfortunate experience ourselves when my brother run aground on rocks with a SOG of 9 kts. Apart from serious damage on the keel the boat survived without any problem. Second photo shows a void area in the bow section. This void is deep and extends to the length of man's wrist. Owner's Comments: I had been concerned the pin was the source of a continuing drip when the boat went on hard. However, I have since traced the source of moisture to old grounding damage/old repair on the leading edge of the keel. You probably know there are voids in the keel. S/V Avalon ( a Dutch boat) reported foam in the voids, but mine appear to be an empty pocket(s). The grounding damage apparently allowed seawater to migrate into a pocket located about 4 inches above the bottom of the keel, near the forward edge of the centerboard trunk.The boat yard penetrated the void with a drill and recovered more than a quart of fairly clear water.This happened last week and the keel is currently drying out.There is no softness in the structure, and it appears quite sound.I hope to complete the drying out in about a month, then repair the keel in time for a late Oct launch. But I will wait and see for now. hole
I decided to clean and wax the hull, a big job for an old weathered boat. I read about using floor wax on the hull as well as Polyglow. Tried it and do not like it. It will wear off or rub off on something. Avoid... pre for wax