S/V Rendova Wauquiez Interior

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Interior Wauquiez Hood 38
My boat's interior was in good condition and little used. There are some minor water stains around the mast and port chain plate. The bilge is shallow with a deep well infront of the engine room. One fault is that the mast allows rain water to run down and pools at the mast step. I have corrected that by building a damn around the mast step and dainhose to the bilge.

The Hood 38 design was born in the 60's "Robin" race boats. The design is traditional with a deep centerboard. I would have liked only one head, galley sink located amidships, forward sitting nav table and if possible a enclosed shower stall. The MKI has most of these features with the exception of the shower. The only thing I disliked about the MKI is the "submarine" deck hatch. Access into the boat is from the deck and not the cockpit. One or two owner's of the MKI have created a aft companion way.

Interior photos - I use the boat all the time. The upholster is old and has deteriorated and will be replaced.

The head's cabinet had to be rebuild. The shelving was made of partial board covered by formica and things were crumbling. I replaced all partial board using plywood. Putting the cabinet back is a tight fit. Note you can see the starboard backing plates.

The bilge is shallow in most of the boat. Rain water enter's the boat via the mast's tangs which are open. There are wooden baffles which keeps bilge water from sloshing. The starboard wooden baffles are rotted out and have been replaced.

After a rain I found water confined to the area inside the baffles. But the water did not drain into the lower area of the bilge. The centerboard hump is too high to allow the water to flow aft. I built a damn around the mast step with a drain hose leading aft. It works but requires the process to start by siphoning.

In the aft cabin there was a vanity toilet which I removed. This door opened outward and lays against the cabin's wall next to the stairs. With the toilet removed I was able to make space for the door to open on the inside of the cabin. The door lip/molding is glued and screwed in.


Don't Drink The Water! The fresh water tank's VDO's liquid level indicator has never worked. I pulled the sending unit and found it corroded/disintegrated. I had problems putting the unit back in, so I opened the inspection port and fished out a fallen part. While feeling around my fingers pulled out blue/black algae! To clean the water tanks I made a water wand out of copper tubing which attaches to a garden hose. I blasted the tanks with water pressure and was be able to wiggle the wand behind the baffled areas. I kept blasting water behind the the baffles until no more algae flushed out. I drained the water, dried the tanks, refilled and shocked the water with a bleach solution. On the MK II model, the starboard tank is physically smaller both in length and width.


I needed screens for the hatches & ports. All hatches & ports are made by Goiot. I ordered screens for the ports but found they fit poorly with gaps in all corners. For hatches I attach screening using a combination of flat bar aluminum and Velcro. This allows most of hatch's screen to be anchored to the hatch's molded lip. Attaching Velcro to the screen I found I needed more surface area for the Velcro's backing to hold stongly. I folded over screening or inserted strips of screening between the folds. I then Super Glued and sewed the screening in place before final Velcro attachment.

I moved the propane tank setup to the bow where its is vented. I ran copper tubing along the hull/deck joint. The hardest task was getting behind the stove area. I pulled the galley cabinet. The cabinet is made of partial board like the head cabinet. This partial board is dry and in good condition but I sealed the edges with epoxy. The cabinet is secured fore & aft from under the sink.

The cabinet was bedded in silicone. With a little work the cabinet was freed. A bigger problem was lifting the cabinet out. The fixtures are in the way to removing the cabinet. The fixtures are hard to reach under the sink, a two person job.

I run the copper tubing and attached to wooden blocks which I epoxyed to the roof of the cabin. I attached the tubing with SS cushion clamps. I did have one problem, my inexperience in bending tubing caused a kink. So I called in a pro Jimmy who owns a AC/Heating business. Jimmy worked on flare fittings, cutting tubing and put a 90 degree fitting.

Last thing Jimmy did was put in a cut off valve. With the cabinet out I just could not leave the wiring in a mess. So I epoxy blocks of painted wood, rearranged the wiring and organized the mess.

There is dead space under and behind the sink area. I just had to build shelving for storage. Difficult area to fit in and work around. But its worth the extra storage.			With curves and odd angles within the boat I never could measure and cut very accurately. Instead I make a template using thin cardboard or heavy construction paper. I cut and snip to size. If I cut too much I can always add cardboard/heavy paper.

Other modifications adding more storage areas around the boat. Forward cabin under the berths, cockpit lockers and the like. I like to use shock cord to keep items from spilling out.

The head, holding tank and hoses needed replacing. I wanted a solid holding tank with a manual pump out. I dropped a socket in the process. When I found the socket I discovered water under the shower sump. I put an inspection port on the floor of the shower. Eariler Hood's seem to have a problem with rot around the aft lower bulkhead. I pulled all trim and brushed epoxy then caulked. Resources Used: Peggie Hall - Head Mistress, she has a small book on head ordors Tanks - Ronco Plastics Heads - Lavac Diverter Valve - Whale Waste Tank Sensor - Ferriello Sales



I used a combination of sanitary hose with PVC thick wall pipe. The PVC will never smell. There are PVC adaptor fittings for pipe to hose. Per Peggie Hall's suggestion I have two breath tubes which allows for more air in the holding tank.

I had a problem running the holding tank's port air vent. It would not squeeze behind the wood paneling. I removed most of the forward cabin's wood which is tongue and grooved. The hull has glassed in stringers for attachment points. Each wood strip was attached using a power stapler.			I reattached the wood using screws.

Interior Lighting - I cleaned and polished my tarnished light fixtures made of brass. I also researched and replaced the bulbs with LED's of red, warm white, and cool white. I used cool white LEDs in cabin dome lights because they have a plastic white lens.

Hatch boards and screens, I had always stowed them under the aft berth's cushion. But I thought of something clever and it uses the boat's dead space.

Storage - never enough on a boat. But there is a bit of space (26" x 12") for a drawer or shelf back of the refrigator's lid. The area had a paper towel holder. I move the holder overhead above the sink.

Storage area behind the stove. Newly built shelves to hold pots, pans and anything else. Odd shape area due to curve of the hull.

The Eno stove is made of steel covered with an enamel shell and after 25 yrs the stove is in good shape. The original oven racks are two metal plates which I replaced with a single wire rack. I get temps of 450 degrees. I replaced the thermocouple and while at it I decided to clean and replace with new insulation.

The shell is held in place with locking studs and screws. TIW fiberglass blanket insulations covers the oven and is rated for 1000 degrees. Under the insulation is a cover of aluminum foil.

I added foil over the new insulation. The new thermocoupler is longer so I ran it around a leg of the stove. The door is held by the frame. I added foil to the door. New insulation was added but not packed down. I had read that some stove's doors had broken from the heat.

Stove is back together, outer trim cleaned and polished. I did make one little mistake, now the flue cover is attched from the back instead of the inside.

Interior Wauquiez Hood 38